By Jeni Kardinal
Traveling to the Maluku islands with the Great Grandson of legendary Alfred Russel Wallace to celebrate the location of where ARW came upon the Theory of Natural Selection.
Meet Wallace’s Great Grandson, Bill and Natalie Wallace
Waiting in the airport lobby on the way to Ternate, I spotted a couple who looked like they might be possible SeaTrekkers. It’s a look I can generally pick out, newly purchased quick dry light weight pants, sturdy looking hiking shoes, sun hat and small backpack. I gathered the courage to walk over and ask if they might be going to Ternate too. Yes, indeed they were and introduced themselves as Bill and Natalie Wallace!
“Wallace,” I said. “Wow, you must be the great grandson of Alfred Russel Wallace! What a true pleasure to meet you!”
They weren’t used to people knowing who Alfred Russel Wallace (ARW) was and this was just the beginning to their new stardom! Soon they would be meeting the most dedicated of fans as they were about to embark on SeaTreks voyage, In search of Wallace and his living treasures with Dr George Beccaloni.
Bill mentioned it was rare for anyone to know about ARW anywhere in Canada where they were currently living, but they would be in for a great surprise here in Indonesia! After all, it was here in Indonesia where Wallace mapped out “The Wallace line” and became known as the father of Biogeography. It was here in the Maluku islands over 166 years ago where Wallace came up with one of the greatest theories of the time, the Theory of Natural selection.
When we arrived in the Ternate airport, the first thing we saw was a huge photograph of Wallace’s Standardwing Birds of Paradise, and Bill Wallace happily posed next to it. This was the first hint to the appreciation of some of the iconic species that were possible to see in the Maluku’s named in honor of Bill’s great grandfather, Alfred Russel Wallace.
Aziz was waiting outside. He was jittery with excitement waiting to meet Bill. Aziz has been greeting SeaTrek guests and guiding tours around Ternate for as long as I can remember, and he knew all about Wallace. He danced over and asked if he could hug Bill, the first of many. He was star-struck being in the presence of one of Wallace’s direct ancestors.
Exploring Wallace’s Path in Ternate
They set off for Ombak Putih to settle in before meeting again at Fort Orange. At the fort, I alerted Kris, who was part of the government team in Ternate and master of ceremony for the upcoming big event, the Wallace plaque unveiling ceremony. He went straight to Bill, overcome with emotion and asked for a hug, tears in his eyes. He quickly regained his composure and announced to the group of dignitaries, including the UK Ambassador for Indonesia and the Governor of Ternate.
“This is the great grandson of Wallace!”
Bill took a moment to express his pride in Wallace’s story noting:
“Wallace was a modest man, he worked hard and he wasn’t afraid to say what he thought was the truth,” which he noted was very challenging during the 1800’s. “He stood up and changed the world with his theories, and I’m very proud to be here.”
Bill was also a modest man and looked humbled given his instant fame.
Bill and the other SeaTrek guest returned to the boat to begin their journey to Halmahera and I remained in Ternate to attend a special dinner as SeaTrek’s representative. I was accompanied by two Wallace enthusiast: Barry who helped George create a bronze stature of Wallace and Ali at the Singapore Natural History Museum, and Nicholas Hughes who helped write a book which documents the process of how they determined where Wallace actually lived in Ternate.
I took the opportunity to gift copies of the Wallace children’s book (that SeaTrek created) to the Governor of Ternate and the Head of the Maluku district.
I was now, officially, part of the VIP group and invited to join the Ambassador’s team on a private speed boat to Halmahera. Indonesians really knows how to throw an event, and I was feeling way more important than I really deserved but happy SeaTrek was getting recognized for tourism that supported culture, nature, and historic sites relating to Wallace.
Unveiling the Wallace Plaque in Dodinga
Waiting for us at the dock were 4 black SUV cars with police escorts for the short 10 min drive. Normally I’d walk from the dock to the town of Dodinga looking for bugs and butterflies, smelling the nutmeg and cloves drying on tarps in the road and waving at the locals with the familiar greeting of “Selamat Pagi”, (good morning) and lots of smiles. But today we were whisked away in cars so not to look too sweaty when we arrived to give our speeches.
As soon as the cars arrived, we were greeted by hundreds of smiling faces. I think every person within any distance at all was there and they were eager to take photos with us. I also felt like a celebrity after getting so many photos taken with rotating family members, mothers, children, fathers etc. I could have been there all day but was eventually ushered away to join a roped off area next to Dr. George, the UK Ambassador, Governors, and the head of Maluku islands.
This had to be the largest event ever for the little town of Dodinga, who’s population had just tripled in size for the event. I helped make the plaque that was going to be unveiled to mark the location of where Wallace had his epiphany during a bout of Malaria. This was a point of clarification as many had previously thought the idea had come about while Wallace was in Ternate but later the puzzle pieces fell into place in Dodinga. So Dodinga was to have a new place in history and the plaque, ceremony, and information board would seal the deal.
The plaque was made in Bali where craftsmen carved each letter by hand that George Beccaloni had written into a black marble slab and painted with gold. I held my breath while it was shipped from Bali to Ternate that it wouldn’t crack along the way. And fortunately, it did not.
As everyone was preparing to give their speeches, I looked around at what a marvel it was to see the information board, the plaque draped in a beautiful cloth waiting to be unveiled, and the number of people who came to participate in the event. It had all come together.
SeaTrek Big Appreciation to People of Dodinga
During my short talk, I wanted to let the local people know how much SeaTrek appreciated the people of Dodinga for welcoming us during our visits over the years. For welcoming us to Halmahera, and the Maluku islands.
We always felt the kindness of the people and appreciated their sharing part of their natural wonders with us. That they lived in a very special place with Birds of Paradise, Golden Bird-wing Butterflies, Giant Bees, and incredible insects and beetles. These things could not be seen anywhere else in the world.
These are the things that drew Alfred Russel Wallace to come to the Maluku’s and how it is important to preserve these natural wonders for future generations of Indonesians to come.
My speech was as follows:
First, I wanted to say, WOW! To acknowledge all the great work that had been done in making the information board, for having the plaque, and for being part of the celebrations.
It’s an honor to be among distinguished guests – Bapak Bapak, Ibu Ibu.
It’s an honor to be in the same location as one of the greatest thinkers of the time, ARW.
This is the place that attracted Wallace due to its biodiversity.
We thank the people of Dodinga for welcoming us today and welcoming the visitors from our voyages over the years.
I imagine the kindness and welcoming spirit we feel today is much the same as when Wallace and Ali came so many years ago.
SeaTrek first came to Dodinga with Dr George leading the way, in search of this very location.
When we spoke to the Haji and the Kepala Desa, little was known about Wallace.
The stories of the crazy explorer Wallace had been lost over time.
It was a good time to re-tell the stories of the past, so SeaTrek decided to write a children’s book, “The Adventures of Alfred Russel Wallace”. Overseen by Dr George of course.
SeaTrek guest help support book donations, every copy sold in English supports 8 copies in Bahasa Indonesian, and we have given out over 8,000 copies around Wallacea.
But first let me tell you more about why Wallace came to Maluku and Halmahera.
The famed Birds of Paradise! The forest was filled with Natural treasures, the most beautiful butterflies, exotic beetles, giant bees, and the birds!
When Wallace first saw the Standard Wing Bird of Paradise and the Golden Birdwing butterfly, the blood rushed to his head and he almost fainted!
They were the most beautiful species he had ever seen!
These birds, butterflies, bees, and special insects cannot be found anywhere else in the world, only in Maluku!
You live in a very special place!
We hope these natural treasures of Indonesia can be preserved, not for us, but for Indonesia’s future generations to see with the same delight that Wallace felt so long ago.
And then Bill Wallace helped unveil the Wallace plaque along with Dr. George, the Head of the Maluku district, and the UK Ambassador. Dodinga has now become a special place in history and SeaTrek helped to make that possible.
