By Fiona Wood
My love affair with Indonesia began in 2014, when I first touched down in Bali. Since then, I’ve returned more than ten times—drawn back by the raw beauty, warm-hearted people, and the sheer diversity of culture and landscape of Indonesia. I’d explored Java, Lombok, Bali, and Flores, but I found myself yearning for something more remote—places where few travellers tread.
Sailing Through the Spice Islands to the Dragon Islands
When I spoke with Gavin and Michael from SeaTrek and heard glowing reviews from clients who had travelled with them, I knew I’d found my next adventure. Their 15-night Spice Islands to Dragon Islands voyage, sailing from Ternate to Komodo, sounded like the stuff of dreams. Nearly 1,000 nautical miles (1,800 kilometres) across some of Indonesia’s most untouched regions—a journey through time, nature, and culture.
Setting off from Ternate, deep in the heart of the historic Spice Islands, our voyage would take us south across the equator, through the remote Sula Archipelago, into Sulawesi, and eventually to the legendary Komodo National Park. It was a route once traversed by traders, explorers, and naturalists, and one that would take us far from Indonesia’s well-worn tourist trail.
Under the Sea
Each day brought a new island, a new experience, and a new reason to fall in love with this incredible country. We snorkelled in some of the most pristine waters I’ve ever seen—often with not another soul in sight. Until we reached the more developed stretches of Flores in the final days, it felt like we had the ocean entirely to ourselves.
Our Tour Leader, Anastasia, was a free-diving magician. With an infectious passion for the sea and an eye for hidden underwater wonders, she was constantly pointing out treasures I would never have noticed on my own—from camouflaged creatures to rare corals. Every snorkel was different, every reef more vibrant than the last.
On the Land
But this trip wasn’t just about the sea. On land, we wandered through villages that rarely see visitors. The people we met were warm, curious, and proud to share their stories, homes, and traditions. In Dodinga village, where Alfred Russel Wallace had his epiphany about the Theory of Natural Selection, I felt a deep connection to history. The sense of standing where great ideas were born was quietly humbling.
One morning, we hiked through the jungle in search of the elusive birds of paradise—and were rewarded with a magical display. Another afternoon, we found ourselves swimming in a lake filled with stingless jellyfish, an experience so surreal it felt like a dream.
We also had the chance to visit an island where pinisi boats—the traditional wooden sailing vessels of Indonesia—are still being constructed by hand, using centuries-old techniques. Watching these master craftsmen at work was a powerful reminder of the enduring maritime traditions that still pulse through this archipelago.
And then, of course, there were the dragons. Komodo National Park was a fitting finale. Seeing these ancient creatures up close in their natural habitat was both exhilarating and awe-inspiring—a true bucket-list moment.
Life Onboard
Back onboard, life was just as rich. The food was a constant highlight: fresh seafood, colourful Indonesian dishes, and plenty of variety to keep every meal exciting. The crew were the heart of the journey—attentive, genuine, and full of stories. By the end of the trip, they felt more like friends than staff. Saying goodbye to them was unexpectedly emotional.
And then there were my fellow travellers. We were a mixed bunch—different ages, different countries, different backgrounds—but we shared a common curiosity and love of adventure. Together, we laughed, learned, and marvelled at this incredible corner of the world.
Travel Beyond the Guidebooks
If you’re craving an experience that goes far beyond the guidebooks—a voyage through some of the most remote and remarkable islands on earth—I can’t recommend SeaTrek highly enough. This journey was a reminder of why I travel: to connect, to be humbled, to discover. Indonesia, once again, delivered all that and more.
